Our Lady of Calhau (church)

This church was known by several names. It was called Conceição de Baixo (Lower Conception) to distinguish it from the chapel that Zarco had built on the site where the Convent of St Clare (Santa Clara) later rose, and which was known as Conceição de Cima. It was also called Santa Maria Maior (‘St Mary Major’), in contrast to the small church of Conceição de Cima, which was of more modest dimensions. Finally, it took the name of Our Lady of Calhau (Nossa Senhora do Calhau), which was the one that lasted longest, because it stood not far from the beach, in a spot commonly called the pebble beach (calhau). On this subject Dr G. Frutuoso says: ‘Having made his lodging in this lugar (settlement ranking between a town and a parish) (Santa Catarina), where he sheltered his wife and children, Captain Zargo resolved to build a church that should be the beginning and foundation of the town of Funchal. So that it should be secure and well placed, he had it laid out by the sea at the end of the valley of Funchal, along the first stream of this meadow, where the sea, next to the current of the stream, formed an inlet full of pebbles and small stones, washed by the constant waves that beat upon it. For this reason this first church of Funchal was commonly named Nossa Senhora do Calhao, its patron saint being the Nativity of the Virgin ...’

Its construction began around 1438, by which time a sizeable population had already settled beyond the left bank of the stream that later took the name of João Gomes. A great flash flood (aluvião) that devastated the city in 1611 destroyed much of the church and of the hospital attached to it, and a new church was then planned on a more sheltered and secure site. It seems that this building was not undertaken straight away, for a note in the Saudades states that the church was rebuilt between 1664 and 1688.

Another flood, in 1707, caused various damage to the new church and destroyed a considerable part of the churchyard, and major works were then carried out on the wall that protected the building from the violent current of the stream. This did not prevent the great flood of 1803 from bringing down the church, leaving only part of the chancel standing. The warrant (provisão) of 10 March 1805 ordered that these ruins be carefully preserved in the same state in which the flash flood (aluvião) had left them, as a reminder to future generations of the event that had been the most calamitous for the inhabitants of this island. This did not happen, however, for thirty-two years later, that is, in December 1835, the Council of Funchal ordered the demolition of what still remained of the old and historic church, so that a fruit and vegetable market could be built there. It was named the União Market (Mercado União), and its construction took place in the year 1835.

Dr Gaspar Frutuoso is not correct when he states that the church of Calhau was the first to be built in Funchal. According to the annotator of the Saudades, the chapel of St Sebastian (São Sebastião) was the first to be erected here, while others maintain that the right of priority belongs to the chapel of Santa Catarina (see that entry), built of wood beside the residence of João Gonçalves Zarco. We share this opinion, since we believe it to be the one that comes closest to the historical truth.

When the flash flood of 1803 swept the church of Our Lady of Calhau into the sea, it also destroyed the parish archive, which was important and contained valuable documents.

At the end of 1803 the seat of the parish moved to the church of St James the Less (Santiago), which was the property of the Municipal Council (Câmara Municipal). See St James the Less (church).

It should be pointed out here that the church of Our Lady of Calhau stood on the left bank of the Ribeira de João Gomes, between the openings of the present Rua de Santa Maria and Rua Nova de Santa Maria (‘new street of St Mary’), or Rua Latino Coelho. On the site where the church stood, as already mentioned, a fruit and vegetable market was built, which was demolished a few years ago to widen the street that runs alongside the same stream (see Markets).

We shall also note that the old hospital, or one of its outbuildings, adjoined this church. This is clearly shown by what is recorded in a register of visitation orders (livro de provimentos) of the parish archive, the only one to escape the flash flood of 1803. It states that within the church, to the great disturbance of the faithful, the cries of the sick could be heard, especially during operations or the most painful dressings.